| Prague is a dizzying maze of narrow, quirky cobbled streets, guarded by the majestic Prague Castle complex and hugging the meandering banks of the River Vltava. The grand old city conjures up a sense of magical timelessness whatever the season. However, for me, it is in Winter where it particularly comes into its own. As soon as frost spikes the air, mulled wine stalls pop up all over the historic centre of Prague, almost like grapevines pushing their way up from beneath the pavements. The waft of their delicious, spiced scent offers both comfort and warmth on chilly, dark evenings. Returning home, one may find a family member boiling up some svarak (mulled wine) on the stove, infusing the wintry air with cinnamon, cloves and pepper to warm the soul; or cooking some seasonal biscuits from crunchy almonds and powdered ginger. All around the city cajovny (teahouses) become vital oases of the Czech “coorie”, as guests huddle around a wood-burning fire reading a book, playing a board game or just in quiet contemplation, steaming hot cup of tea in hand. These cosy tea dens are important not only in providing some solace from the winters, which can be severe, but also in providing an alternative to the ubiquitous-ness of alcohol. While similar scents to the spices used in mulled wine also emanate from freshly brewed teas, like the wonderful Indian-inspired chais comprised of cloves and cinnamon. |
